Glasses for Deep-Set and Hooded Eyes: Frames That Open Up

Glasses for deep-set and hooded eyes: where the top rim should sit, which colours and shapes open up the eye area, and fit tips for lashes and nose pads.

6 min de lecturePar IGIOO Optical

Woman wearing tortoiseshell square glasses that open up the eye area
Dans cet article
  1. 01Deep-set vs hooded eyes: what is the difference?
  2. 02Where the top rim should sit
  3. 03Frame colour and rim thickness
  4. 04Shapes that open up the eye area
  5. 05Bridge fit and nose pads
  6. 06Lens details worth adding
  7. 07A quick checklist before you order
  8. 08Frequently asked questions
  9. 09Find a frame that brightens your eyes

If your eyes sit deeper under the brow or the upper lid folds over the crease, choose glasses with a light or thin upper rim, a top line that sits at or just below the brow, and lenses deep enough to show the whole eye. Lifted outer corners, clear or pale colours and adjustable nose pads usually do more for deep-set and hooded eyes than a heavy dark frame. The aim is simple: let light reach the eye area instead of adding another shadow.

Deep-set vs hooded eyes: what is the difference?

The two are often mentioned together, but they are not the same thing, and the frame advice shifts a little for each.

  • Deep-set eyes sit further back in the face, under a more pronounced brow bone. The eyes can look shaded, especially under overhead light.
  • Hooded eyes have a fold of skin above the crease that partly covers the mobile lid. The lid can look smaller, and the eye can appear slightly lower or heavier at the outer corner.

Many people have a bit of both. A quick check in the mirror with relaxed, open eyes tells you which one dominates: if the shadow comes from the brow, think "deep-set"; if it comes from the lid fold, think "hooded".

Where the top rim should sit

The upper rim is the single most important line. A thick rim that lands right across the shaded area can make the eyes look smaller still. On the other hand, a rim that sits far above the brow looks disconnected.

The sweet spot for most people is a top line that follows the eyebrow and sits on it or just under it. That way the frame frames the brow instead of the shadow. For hooded eyes, a top line that rises gently towards the outer corners pulls the eye visually upwards and counters the downward weight of the fold.

Lens depth matters too. If the lens is too shallow, the rim cuts across the middle of the eye area. A lens height that leaves visible space above and below the pupil keeps the eye in the centre of the frame. Our frame size guide shows how lens width, lens height and bridge are measured.

Frame colour and rim thickness

Dark, heavy acetate is not off limits, but it is the hardest option for deep-set eyes because it adds weight exactly where the face is already darker. Lighter choices tend to look more open:

  • Clear and crystal fronts let skin tone show through and almost disappear on the brow line. Browse our clear frames.
  • Thin metal rims outline the lens without blocking light. See our metal frames.
  • Soft warm colours such as honey tortoise, blush or champagne brighten the area more than black.
  • Two-tone fronts that are darker on top can work, as long as the dark part is slim and sits on the brow, not below it.

Shapes that open up the eye area

Shape Deep-set eyes Hooded eyes
Soft cat-eye Good, especially in thin metal Very good: the lift counters the fold
Round or panto Good in clear or light colours Fine if the top line is not too low
Geometric wire Very good: light and airy Good, angles add lift at the corners
Large soft square Good: deep lenses show the full eye Good in warm tortoise or lighter tones
Narrow, thick rectangle Harder: shallow lens, heavy line Harder: emphasises the droop

Cat-eye shapes are a natural fit for hooded lids because the upswept corners echo the brow. If a full cat-eye feels too dramatic, a soft square with a slight upward tilt at the outer edge gives a similar effect. Our cat-eye collection covers both delicate metal and bolder acetate versions.

Bridge fit and nose pads

For deep-set eyes, lashes touching the lens is a common annoyance. The fix is usually distance: the lens needs to sit a little further from the face. Frames with adjustable nose pads make this easy, because the pad arms can be set to move the front forward or up by a few millimetres.

A solid acetate bridge sits where it sits. That is fine if the fit is right, but if you already know lashes or brow bone get in the way, metal frames with pads give you more room to fine-tune. For hooded eyes, raising the frame slightly on the nose can also help the top rim meet the brow line rather than the lid fold.

Lens details worth adding

Because the eye area can look shaded, reflections on the lens make it even harder to see your eyes in photos or on calls. An anti-reflective coating keeps the lens surface clearer, so people see your eyes rather than a glare spot. If you have a stronger prescription, a higher-index lens keeps the edges thinner, which also keeps the frame looking lighter. Make sure your pupillary distance is accurate so the optical centre sits in front of each pupil; our PD measuring guide walks you through it.

A quick checklist before you order

  1. Top rim sits on or just below your eyebrow, not across the shadow.
  2. Lenses are deep enough to show space above and below your pupils.
  3. The front is light: clear, pale, warm tortoise or thin metal.
  4. Outer corners are level or slightly lifted, never drooping.
  5. There is enough distance between lens and lashes, ideally with adjustable nose pads.

Still unsure about shape? Our face shape guide combines well with the tips above, since face shape and eye shape both play a part.

Shop this guide

Frequently asked questions

Can I wear black frames with deep-set eyes?

Yes, but keep the rim slim and make sure the top line sits on the brow. A thin black metal frame or a black frame with a lighter lower rim tends to look more open than a thick all-black acetate.

Are oversized glasses good for hooded eyes?

They can be. A larger, deeper lens gives the eye more room and avoids a rim cutting across the lid. Just check that the frame width matches your face so the frame does not slide down and sit lower than intended.

Why do my lashes touch my lenses?

Deep-set eyes, long lashes or a low bridge fit can put the lens too close. Frames with adjustable nose pads, or a frame that sits a little higher and further forward, usually solve it.

Do clear frames suit everyone with deep-set eyes?

Clear frames are one of the easiest options because they do not add shadow, but a tinted clear front, such as champagne or blush, can look warmer if very transparent frames feel too plain on you.

Find a frame that brightens your eyes

Start with light, lifted shapes in our women's eyeglasses or the full eyeglasses collection, then fine-tune the fit with pads and lens depth. Add your prescription in a few clicks with our lens selector.

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